It can be fun (though sometimes cringe-inducing) to read things you’ve written years ago. So it’s been a bit of a blast to have stumbled across a cache of pizza writing from almost a decade ago. I’d thought that these 20 posts, originally published on AlwaysHungryNY, had been lost for good. They never got repurposed (save this one on the cold cheese slice) when we launched The Daily Meal, and despite early assurances by a former colleague, the original site was allowed to disappear. I don’t know why it took me this long to try to find them on the Wayback Machine — it certainly would have been a helpful thing to have thought of during numerous pizza caption-writing occasions over the years — but here they are now, nonetheless, and without all the weird stylization of an arbitrary stylebook (#nogrudgeshere).
A good number of places (Pulino’s, Squisito, K! Pizzacone, L’asso Pizza, and South Brooklyn Pizza Company to name a few), have closed and even more have opened since. That will considerably change many of the declarations made in these 20 pieces.
“There are some fun ones: an early visit to Paulie Gee’s, a write-up of the 76th anniversary of Patsy’s in Harlem, a review of Eddie’s of New Hyde Park, and a pie-by-pie of New Haven. My favorite may be “Jumbo Slice Wars,” which pits New York City’s Koronet against Pizza Mart in DC.
A clam pizza list today that doesn’t mention Pasquale Jones, for instance, would be insane. And while they’re not slicerias, you wouldn’t be able to have a conversation about the best pizza near the Empire State Building, even a slice-centric one, without mentioning Marta and &pizza, which have both since opened within six blocks of the landmark.
Still, there are some fun ones. Like a very early visit with slicemeister Adam Kuban to Paulie Gee’s and an interview with Paul Giannone before he became anywhere near as known as he is in the pizza world today. There’s also a write-up of the 76th anniversary of Patsy’s in Harlem, a review of Eddie’s of New Hyde Park, and a pie-by-pie of New Haven that includes a pan of Modern Apizza. My favorite may be “Jumbo Slice Wars,” which pits Koronet Pizza against Pizza Mart in Washington, DC. That one was written up in the Washington City Paper. Fun times.
Anyway, for posterity… here they are today, with a few photo replacements to fill in those lost along the way, and almost completely intact with almost nary a qualitative tweak: the lost pizza files.
New(er) Haven Pizza: Bru Room At Bar
The pie that put me in the pro camp of mashed potatoes on pizza. (Sep 22, 2010)
2010 New York City Pizza Run
Been there, done that, have the T-shirt! (Sep 20, 2010)
Le Fooding’s “Any Way You Slice It”
This photo of Mark Iacano and some of the city’s other pizza greats had longer legs than I could have thought when I snapped it. Too bad I still don’t have the high-res original. (Sep 8, 2010)
Kesté’s Insalata “Pizza Sandwich”
First, there was the pizza wallet, aka “the portfolio.” Then came the more practical pizza sandwich at Kesté Pizza & Vino. (Aug 11, 2010)
New York’s Best Pizza Brunch Is At Roberta’s In Brooklyn
Where else but Roberta’s in Bushwick would you find the best pizza brunch in the city? (Jul 23, 2010)
Jumbo Slice Wars: DC Vs NYC
This one touched a nerve in DC. As a Georgetown grad who has been impressed by the food scene in the years since graduating, I’d still urge some DC food writers to let the chip on their collective shoulder slip off. It’s a great food town. And hey, why so serious? It’s time to just embrace the jumbo slice side by side with mambo sauce and the half-smoke as one of the city’s signature dishes. (Apr 27, 2010)
First Look: Paulie Gee’s Greenpoint Pizzeria
An early look (and taste) at some of Paulie’s now famous pies. (Mar 22, 2010)
Paulie Gee, On Living The Dream (From Pizza-Questing To Pizza-Making)
An early interview with Paulie Gee at his new (then) Greenpoint pizzeria and what it took to make the leap to the pizza life. (Mar 22, 2010)
First Look: Pulino’s Bar And Pizzeria On Bowery
Before it was Cherche Midi, 282 Bowery at Houston was Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria, the joint opened by Keith McNally and Nate Appleman, a pretty good spot for New Haven-esque pies that couldn’t quite make upscale pizza do the math. (Mar 15, 2010)
A Quick Look At Eddie’s Pizza Of New Hyde Park
Eddie’s has made inroads in the city with its truck, but the original in New Hyde Park on Long Island has been spinning out bar pies since at least the ’40s.
Featured Pizza: “The Rustica” At Manducatis Rustica In Long Island City
Long Island City has been called a bit of a pizza wasteland. Manducatis Rustica does an admirable job as an oasis. (Mar 8, 2010)
New York’s Battle Of The Pizza Cones
I don’t know why pizza cones got so much press, but they really did, they weren’t very good, and they’re pretty much gone, no? Right? Maybe? (Feb 22, 2010)
First Look: Totonno’s Reopens
Seems like Totonno’s has been around forever, right? It has, but there was that time we almost lost it to fire and then celebrated the reopening by stopping in that day for a pie. (Feb 12, 2010)
5 Best Clam Pizzas In New York City
You’d have to put Pasquale Jones at the top of this list today, and two of five of these spots have closed (Franny’s and L’asso, RIP), but this was a great top five circa Feb 10, 2010.
Spatola Latticini Factory: Queens Mozzarella From Factory To Plate
A tour of a Ridgewood, Queens, mozzarella factory that produced cheese for the now-closed pizzeria Da Franco in Astoria. (Jan 29, 2010)
Empire Slice Of Mind: Best Pizza Near The Empire State Building
You’d think there would be some great slices around one of the most-touristed landmarks in New York City, right? Not so much. A search, slice by slice, of some 14 pizzerias in a quest to determine the best of many poor slices in this part of Manhattan. (Jan 19, 2010)
New Haven’s Best Apizza, Pie By Pie
Visits to Frank Pepe, Sally’s Apizza, and Modern Apizza with Jason Feirman’s I Dream of Pizza. Includes documentation of how I’ve been unsuccessful at trying to make people aware of Pepe’s shrimp pie for nearly a decade! 😉 (Nov 12, 2009)
Frank Pepe’s “The Spot”
You may have been to Frank Pepe, but have you been to the original location? No, not the one at 157 Wooster Street in New Haven, but the one next door at 163 Wooster. Ever heard of the “Chai pie”? I hadn’t either before this visit. (Oct 2, 2009)
Lobstah Feast Friday At Rocky Sullivan’s In Red Hook
A write-up of a pretty unheralded bar pie at Rocky Sullivan’s and a review of Red Hook Lobster Pound when it was doing pop-ups, long before you could find it in a truck, at markets, or in the several locations it has today. (Aug 31, 2009)
1933 Rollback And Pizza-Eating Contest At Patsy’s Pizzeria
Wherein it’s learned that you have to eat a slice at Patsy’s within a strict timeframe. (Aug 26, 2009)