It can be fun (though sometimes cringe-inducing) to read things you’ve written years ago. So it’s been a bit of a blast to have stumbled across a cache of pizza writing from almost a decade ago. I’d thought that these 20 posts, originally published on AlwaysHungryNY, had been lost for good. They never got repurposed (save this one on the cold cheese slice) when we launched The Daily Meal, and despite early assurances by a former colleague, the original site was allowed to disappear. I don’t know why it took me this long to try to find them on the Wayback Machine — it certainly would have been a helpful thing to have thought of during numerous pizza caption-writing occasions over the years — but here they are now, nonetheless, and without all the weird stylization of an arbitrary stylebook (#nogrudgeshere).
Wait… what!? John’s of Bleecker Street, the no-nonsense, West Village, pie-only stalwart known for scratched tables, initialed walls, and one of the city’s most iconic thin-crust pizzas announced some big news for pizza nerds late Tuesday afternoon on Instagram: They now deliver.
“EXTRA EXTRA! You’ve waited and waited, and now… we are officially ready to deliver John’s of Bleecker Street pie to your doorstep! You’ve heard that right – our very own service is up and running. GO to our website: johnsbrickovenpizza.com and click ‘delivery!’ 🍕🍕🍕💕💕💕”
For as many tourists that visit the Great White Way, Times Square has long been a wasteland for good pizza. I don’t know what’s worse, bedbug Elmos or that tourists grabbing a slice at La Famiglia or Little Italy Pizza (God forbid, 2 Bros), think they’ve tasted the legit pizza New York is known for. Sure there’s the Midtown John’s outpost, but as far as good slicerias go, you used to have to walk down to New York Pizza Suprema across from the Garden. Things have improved. You can walk over to Corner Slice on 11th Avenue or crosstown to Sofia Pizza Shoppe but until recently, if you wanted a great slice right there in Times Square… fuggedaboutit. No longer. Today, Joe’s Pizza opened at 1435 Broadway just two blocks south of where the ball drops. It immediately took the mantle of Times Square’s best pizza.
“You’re always nervous when you move into a new neighborhood,” Joey Vitale told me. Joey is the grandson of the original Pino ‘Joe’ Pozzuoli, famed pizza operator of Joe’s Pizza in the West Village.
By the looks of things, he’s got nothing to worry about. The new Joe’s Pizza on 1435 Broadway literally a block from Bryant Park and just a few steps up and out of the Times Square NQR station has the look and feel of the 14th Street East Village expansion. Unlike the West Village original, it’s roomy with stools and counters on either side of the pizza counter, behind which, three new deck ovens are being broken in.
I’ve worked on numerous pizza lists over the years, each with its own challenges when it comes to ranking. But coming up with a list of New York City’s best pizzas by price for First We Feast? Well, this one was a doozy. It may also be one of the more interesting and difficult pizza lists I’ve worked on.
If you’ve ever dreamed of touring Italy and trying its best pizzas, this is the list for you. Back in June, representatives for 50 Top Pizza, a new online pizza guide featuring some 500 pizzerias, gathered at Manhattan’s Ribalta, to release its 2017 International Pizza Rankings. Those special 50 spots outside pizza’s birthplace have now been followed by the guide’s picks for the 50 best pizzerias in Italy.
There’s a new online pizza guide that is setting out to rank the world’s best pizzerias and while Italy is the dominant part of the guide so far, 50 Top Pizza representatives gathered today at Neapolitan pizzeria Ribalta in Manhattan to announce the top 50 winners across five different continents outside of pizza’s birthplace.
“This is the first online guide for pizzerias, not pizzas, we’re talking about the pizzerias,” announced Maria Rosaria Galletta, who translated the event’s announcements from Italian.
Parse that as you will. There’s a trove of pizza listicles writers out there who may beg to differ, but you’ll probably be hard-pressed to find any who will disagree that 50 Top Pizza may be the most thorough online ranking of Italian pizzerias. In attendance were 50 Top Pizza’s curators, wine journalist Luciano Pignataro (LucianoPignataro WineBlog), long-time sommelier Barbara Guerra, master taster of cheeses and olive oil, Albert Sapere. The list was published by Formamentis and financed by a number of sponsors including Caputo Flour, Olitalia, Così Com’è and Consorzio Tutela Mozzarella di Bufala Campana.
The sign is up and the butcher paper is about to come down at the new Artichoke Pizza just across the street from the old one, which sadly burned down just a few weeks ago (FDNY fire marshals said it was caused by heat from its overheated pizza oven flue). The new sliceria had been in the works for almost a year and there’s a new lease, about six times the space for customers, and about 15 times more room for the Artichoke crew to sling their signature pies late into the night for hungry East Village party-zens. These things sometimes have a way of turning from days to weeks, but cousins Francis Garcia and Sal Basille said they may open as soon as today.
It’s happy news that the block will continue to feature one of businesses that helped bring life to a strange stretch of 14th Street that will soon see even more foot traffic from all the people who will call all the new construction going up either work or home.
And it sounds like if you swing by in the opening weeks, you may have a chance to eat a slice from a pie personally slung by one of the owners. More from the Artichoke pizza boys to come.
Artichoke Basille’s Pizza
320 E 14th Street,
New York, NY 10003
Phone: (212) 228-2004
Whether you agree with Buffalo chicken as a pizza topping from a culinary or philosophical perspective or throw it in with pineapple and ham as a controversial bastardization, you’d be hard-pressed to deny Buffalo chicken’s iconic presence on menus at pizzerias across America. And while Teressa Bellissimo is generally credited with having invented Buffalo wings at Anchor Bar in 1964, credit for its invention as a pizza topping is a little harder to pin down. When did wings move out of the side dish and onto the pie? Who Invented Buffalo chicken pizza?
The hard beginning of a search for the originator of Buffalo chicken pizza has to be 1964 with their Nickel City origin. From there, consider that La Nova Pizza is generally accepted as the first pizzeria in Buffalo (in 1971) to also start serving wings. It seems logical that would mark the best starting point for the first pizzeria to serve Buffalo chicken on top of pizza. I’m working on finding out when La Nova started making their Chicken Finger Pizza (it features a blue cheese base, spicy crust, fontinella, Cheddar and mozzarella) but so far, no word as to whether it marks the birthplace of this topping’s national prominence.
Slice aficionados who’ve bemoaned the lack of a good slice in Midtown can rejoice. A new sliceria called Sofia Pizza Shoppe in Sutton Place is serving a crispy-bottomed thin pizza that inspires faith that the art of the quality New York City slice joint may yet persevere in the face of average reheats and the $1 slice. But this kind of quality doesn’t usually pop up out of nowhere. No wonder then Sofia’s family pedigree is linked to one of Brooklyn’s longstanding, unheralded neighborhood pizza institutions, Bensonhurst’s J&V Pizzeria.
Sofia opened last July on the west side of 1st Avenue between 54th and 55th streets in a space last occupied eight years ago by a pet groomer. Founders and friends Tom Degrezia (left) and Matthew Porter have both directing and acting credits (Porter had a role on “30 Rock”) and a passion for pizza. But it’s Degrezia with the sauce in his veins. His grandfather Vincent Degrezia opened J&V Pizzeria in 1955. And Sofia isn’t his first restaurant. Tom and his dad opened Sofia Wine Bar & Cafe on 50th near Second Avenue in 2008, where they serve a limited pizza menu.
“We live in the area, so we knew there weren’t any great slice places around, but when we started getting pizza delivery requests at the wine bar, we knew it wasn’t just us that felt the neighborhood needed a go-to ‘sliceria,’” Tom explained.
In fact, Degrezia and the New Hampshire-born Porter (who name Staten Island’s Joe and Pat’s and Rocco’s Pizza Joint in Chelsea as their respective favorite slices after theirs and J&V’s), said until Sofia opened, they had to go downtown or Brooklyn to get a good slice. They weren’t alone.
Ten years ago, bewildered by the dearth of quality slices in Midtown, I spent a week systematically seeking good pizza. River to river, 25 blocks deep, America’s supposed pizza capital was dominated by Bravo, Little Italy Pizza, Sbarro, and Papa John’s. Neapolitan joints PizzArte NY and Don Antonio by Starita (by Roberto Caporuscio of Kesté renown) have made inroads, but when it came to New York slices, it was a disgrace. (For the record, Pizza Suprema on 31st and 8th is technically in Chelsea.)
The wait is over.
This essay was written September 11, 2007 during a four-month eating odyssey across Europe.
“Shit!” I cursed with a heaving breath as I ran down the dark, empty street parallel to the Calata Piliero in the Porto di Napoli.
I was halfway through three months of eating my way across Europe using my last shiny dimes saved during five years of an unfulfilling office job in New York City. This was the last ferry to Sicily. I was trying to run from the ticket office to the pier by ten o’clock. With each asphalt-slamming stride the thirty kilos strapped to my back and chest lofted up and crashed down, knocking the air out of my lungs. If someone was to jump from behind a cargo container or shadowed doorway at least I was running. I had eight minutes to catch the ferry and no accommodations in Naples.
It was the pizza’s fault.