The concrete jungle sizzles in summer. Light twinkles off the glass condo windows through waves of heat. You get jostled by sweaty sidewalk-denizens. The city is too much. Too full, too busy, too— too much. It’s Saturday. Almost noon. Or maybe Sunday and already past two. You’re hungry. Need food. Brunch. Breakfast. But you don’t want French toast. Enough eggs Benedict. You laugh in the face of omelettes. You want something different, somewhere else. It’s time to flip this meal upside-down. You need to head to Brooklyn — to Roberta’s. You need pizza for brunch.
Frank Ciminieri filled the fridge with small bottles of wine while talking about how much he loves Cash Cab, “I watch it for two hours in the morning when I wake up and two hours at night.”
His sister, Cookie, bemoaned the lack of mirrors in the restaurant and said, “We need some music in here.” So a customer obliged by singing Louis Prima in between taking pictures on his iPhone. Eleven months after a fire shut it down, Totonno’s is back.
The large cheese pie ($19.50) was delicious. The center crust was as thin as the styrofoam plate it sat on, the edge’s crust was light, airy, and delicate, and the upskirt was covered with wonderful, large raised flecks. That thinness created a ratio of cheese and sauce that even makes sauce-monkeys happy. And with the opening, making New Yorkers happy with pizza will be routine once again in Coney Island.
Good luck, Totonno’s. Welcome back.
Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitana
1524 Neptune Ave.,
Brooklyn, NY, 11224
Phone: (718) 372-8606
Subway: F, Q (W 8 St – NY Aquarium)
This post was originally published February 12th, 2010, on the now-defunct, James-Beard Award-nominated blog AlwaysHungryNY.com.
Rocky Sullivan’s is hooking up with Susan Povich and Ralph Gorman of Red Hook Lobster Pound who will be hosting their “Lobstah Feast” every Friday through the end of the year. Starting at 6 pm, $23 gets you corn, coleslaw or potato salad, a 1½-pound lobster, and dessert, first come first serve.
Last Friday was the inaugural feast. Susan Povich said the Pound teamed up with Rocky’s for several reasons, “Our business is in Red Hook, we live and work in Red Hook, Rocky’s has always been a great pub, and their deck is unbelievable.” She added that the owners “are real, great people, honest, full of integrity.”